UrbanDaddy: Briciola review

Posted by in Press | March 19, 2014


It’s better with wine.

But some pasta places don’t serve it. Which is why you keep that bottle of chianti tucked under one arm at all times. (And a corkscrew in your breast pocket.)

So you’ll be in good shape for Briciola, a snug BYOB pasta cove on a tree-lined stretch of East Ukrainian Village that’s slated to open Friday.

At first blush, you’ll see straw-colored walls, wall-sized photos of Milan circa 1905 and the open kitchen and think, “Oh. A neighborhood trattoria. Nice. Maybe I’ll come back sometime for some tortelloni. Maybe I’ll bring a date.” Good instincts.

But then you’ll say hello to Mario, that kindly, unassuming Milanese chef in the middle of the kitchen. Your instincts sensing… a gnocchi genius. He was the original chef at Bice Chicago—the ’80s celeb hangout—and worked in kitchens from Milan to New York to Istanbul. Oh, the stories his Tagliatelle alla Bolognese could tell.

Right about then you’ll realize that the barolo you’ve been saving for a rainy day would actually be better saved for octopus carpaccio, grilled calamari and a grilled Angus steak served with arugula pesto.

Drinking wine in the rain is a bad idea anyhow.

Read more: http://www.urbandaddy.com/chi/food/17925/Briciola_Octopus_Carpaccio_and_Fresh_Pasta_on_Damen_Chicago_CHI_East_Village_Restaurant#ixzz2wMtwLAma