The Reader review of Briciola

Posted by in Press | March 19, 2014

The all’amatriciana—here chitarra “sciue” “sciue”—was advertised as “spicy,” and I was happy to find it lived up to its billing. Long noodles in a zesty red sauce, the dish contained a generous amount of shrimp, squid, and clam—and it was lovely. So, for that matter, was the rest of the meal: for instance, the juicy, height-of-the-season tomatoes in the bruschetta we got, gratis, soon after sitting down on the stone-lined patio. A starter of beef carpaccio, topped with celery and Parmesan, was cool and light; there are also two other carpacci on the menu—beet and octopus—and appetizers like a cannellini bean hummus, grilled polenta with portobello mushroom, and a couple different preparations of calamari. Pork chop Milanese and Florentine-style chicken top the “secondi” menu, but we stuck with pasta and were happy about that too. In my tagliatelle alla Bolognese, thick house-made noodles were strewn with a powerfully deep, earthy sauce that only hinted at tomato—it’s just All Meat, is what I’m saying, and really very good.

— Sam Worley

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